A GUIDE TO THE BEST RESTAURANTS IN ROME

The first thing people usually ask me when they find out I travel to Rome, Italy almost every year is, “What’s your favourite restaurant”?  Or “Where can I get the best pizza, pasta, gelato, etc.”.  Or even, “Where can I get authentic Italian food?”.  I’m always happy to share my recommendations for the top restaurants in Rome. Especially if it will help spare someone the frustration of wasting their money at one of the many overpriced tourist traps with subpar food. You know the ones. They usually have a host outside beckoning people in and a big sign advertising “Tourist Menu”. Over the years I’ve learned to avoid these kinds of establishments and so should you. So while I’ve learned the hard way suffering through countless disappointing meals in Italy, along the way I’ve also had some of the most amazing meals of my life. So to help satisfy your craving for everything from gelato, pizza, and pasta to Michelin-starred dining, here is my guide to my fav Rome restaurants.

ROSCIOLI SALUMERIA CON CUCINA

Roscioli Salumeria in the Campo de’ Fiori area is probably my current favourite restaurant and a must-visit whenever I’m in Rome. Operated by one of the city’s best-baking families, there are 3 different Roscioli outposts in the city but the salumeria is the main sit-down restaurant. There is also Antico Forno Roscioli which sells delicious bread, pastries, and pizzas to go. If you’re there around Christmas time do try one of their Panettones. They really are the best I’ve ever had. There is also the coffee shop Roscioli Cafe which is a great place to grab a cappuccino and cornetto to enjoy at the stand-up bar. All three are in very close proximity to each other.

But getting back to the salumeria, if you want to have dinner there (and you should) be sure to make a reservation ahead of time. It’s almost impossible to get a table without one. Especially during the busy season. As for what to order, I like to start with the Mortadella Fatta A Mano (handmade Mortadella with parmesan curls).  After all, it is a salumeria! Another favourite is La Burrata Pugliese Con Pomodorini (Burrata cheese with double sun-dried cherry tomatoes). The portions of salumi are fairly large and ideal for sharing. As for a main, I usually just stick with pasta and my go-to is the Cacio e Pepe! It’s one of the best in the city.

On my last visit, it was truffle season in Italy so my friend ordered the tagliatelle with fresh truffles. They measure the truffles by the ounce and literally just start shaving it on top of your pasta until you tell them to stop. My kind of heaven! Unfortunately, this particular heaven doesn’t come cheap. This portion was around $70.00 just for the truffles (pasta extra). But if you’re a truffle lover like me and looking for one of the best truffle pasta in Rome, it’s worth every penny!

And if you still have room I recommend you try their fantastic Canoli for dessert. Just be aware that at the end of your meal, they’ll likely treat you to their house-made biscuits with warm chocolate sauce so save room!

ARMANDO AL PANTHEON

I couldn’t do a guide to Rome restaurants without including Armando al Pantheon. This old-school Italian resto in the Pantheon area has been open since 1961 and features traditional specialties of Roman cuisine. It’s a family-run restaurant started by the father Armando and is now run by his sons Claudio and Fabrizio. 

During dinner at Armando’s start with one of their traditional Roman appetizers like Coratella D’Abbacchio (lamb heart, liver, and lungs) if you’re a fan of offal.  Or if you’re the squeamish type, try the Eggplant Parmigiana or the Bruschetta di Tartufo (bruschetta with black truffle). For a primo (first course) try one of their traditional pasta dishes like Spaghetti alla Gricia (spaghetti with bacon (pork cheek) and pecorino cheese and black pepper or my favourite, the Spaghetti alla Tartuffo (spaghetti with truffles).

If you still have room, try one of the typical Roman dishes like Trippa alla Roma (tripe roman style), Saltimbocca alla Romana (Veal with ham and sage cooked in white wine), or Chicken with Romana Peppers for secondi (seconds). For a contorno (side) don’t forget to try their Artichokes in Season. Finish off with the Ancient Roman Cake made with ricotta cheese and strawberry jam or the Pears Cooked in Red Wine in season. Whatever you choose you’ll need to make a reservation well in advance to dine at Armando al Pantheon. However, we once got lucky when we just stopped in to try our luck. A reservation had not shown up and we were fortunate to grab their table.

BACCANO

Now I want to say straight up that this Trevi Fountain area restaurant is not your typical Italian resto. They call themselves a Mediterranean Bistro and the decor is more retro French bistro, however, in a touristy area like this where it can be hard to find good quality restaurants, Baccano is a good find. They offer great food made with top-quality ingredients in a clean and stylish environment. You can get classic Italian food and pasta dishes like Amatriciana or Carbonara,

but they also offer oysters and raw seafood platters as well as more international dishes like Chicken Ceasar Salad and a great burger which can be hard to find in Rome. They also feature a brunch menu on weekends so when you’ve had your fill of cornetto and are looking for a more substantial, North American-style breakfast, Boccano is a great option. But if you’d like you can still get that espresso and cornetto at the bar.

Another thing I really like about this restaurant is that they actually place bottles of really, really good EVOO at each table. And I mean great quality brands like Quattrociochi, a seriously good EVOO. You might be surprised to hear that even in Italy it’s more common than not to find poor quality or even rancid EVOO on restaurant tables so I applaud Boccano for rising above the norm.

The prices here might be a tad higher than at that family-run Trattoria outside of the city center but remember you are in the very touristy, pricey Trevi Fountain area and the ingredients they use are top-notch.  I’m a big fan of their Beef Tartare made from knife-chopped Fasona Beef from Piedmont. When I’m in Rome, Baccano has become the meeting place for my friends and me.  When we make plans we usually say “Let’s meet at Baccano for an aperitivo”, and then we’ll go on from there.

IL CHIANTI OSTERIA TOSCANA

Another go-to if I find myself hungry in the Trevi Fountain area is Il Chianti.  While, admittedly, Il Chianti specializes in Tuscan food, I always find it reliable with good quality food and friendly service. The atmosphere is warm and approachable and I always feel comfortable eating here, even when alone.

For starters try the Il Tagliere Del Chianti (selection of cured meats and cheese with croutons and buffalo’s milk ricotta) or the Sirloin of Wild Boar with Pecorino from Fossa and Rocket. If you’re craving pasta, the Pumpkin Tortelli with Melted Butter and Sage is excellent as is the Creamy Artichoke Lasagna. All their pasta is homemade and cooked properly al dente. For mains, I love their Braised Beef with Brunello Wine and Grilled Potatoes but you can’t go wrong with their Crisp Suckling Pig or Baked Lamb either. And while I’ve never had one, they also feature a wide selection of pizzas that look delicious!

There is also a lovely outdoor terrace where you can sit under the shade of an umbrella and enjoy your meal or just an aperitivo from their great selection of Tuscan wines.

MERCATO CENTRALE

While more of a market-style food hall, Mercato Centrale is my fav place to grab a casual bite near Termini train station or a snack for the train ride. Open since October 2016, the market is the product of the team behind Florence’s Mercato Centrale and is a great addition to the station. It’s like an upscale, food court that’s open from 8 am to midnight every day. You will find seating to enjoy your meal on either the main floor or the mezzanine.

What sets this food market apart is the impressive list of some of Rome’s best food artisans offering top-quality products. Artisans like Gabriel Bonci of Pizzarium fame (see below), for meats, butcher Robert Liberati with his lineup of sausages and salami, Beppe Giovale and his fabulous cheeses, Stefano Callegari with Trapizzini, Egidio Michelis who offers some of the best pasta in the city, and then there are Enrico Lagorio’s burgers made from Chianini beef and even Ramen by Akira Yasheda. There are also artisans offering fish, gelato, wines, etc….

I love to grab a quick Aroncini or Pizza al Taglio and a Spritz while waiting for my train but the market also features a full sit-down restaurant on the mezzanine from Chef Oliver Glowig as well as a cafeteria and a beer pub.

Located just outside the actual station itself, the main entrance is on Via Giovanni Giolitti, on the south side of the Station.  However, you can also access it directly from the station (as you are facing the tracks, it’s on the far right, about a five-minute walk).

PIZZARIUM BONCI

Located behind Vatican City this Pizzarium run by Gabriele Bonci, known as the Michelangelo of Pizza, is one of my favourite places for Roman-style pizza. They also have an outpost in Mercato Centrale at Termini train station if you don’t feel like trekking all the way to the other side of the city. Pizzarium offers a variety of one-of-a-kind Roman-style Pizza Al Taglia (square slices sold by weight) and the lineup changes frequently throughout the day. Bonci has created 1500 different pizzas, some of which are on offer daily including the basics like Margherita to exotic offerings like Pumpkin, Speck, and Caciocavallo.

Bonci is famous for his dough which creates pizzas that are thick but light and airy with a crispy crust.  They also offer Suppli, Roman-inspired rice, and pasta balls stuffed with cheese and meat. There is no seating at Pizzarium. This is strictly a takeout place and there is usually a lineup, especially at lunchtime so be prepared to wait. And a heads up that they only take debit or credit cards.  You can’t pay by cash here!

FORNO CAMPO DE’ FIORI

Another fav that I couldn’t leave out of my guide to Rome restaurants is bakery Forno Campo de’ Fiori.  Located in the southwest corner of the Camp de ‘Fiori, they specialize in sweet and savory Roman specialties like tarts and flatbreads made fresh daily from only the best quality raw ingredients but I love to stop here for their Pizza al Taglia. They have great toppings and their pizzas feature a nice crispy crust.  But be prepared to wait as there is usually a lineup, especially for their delicious Pizza Bianca when it comes fresh out of the oven.

For a special treat make sure you head over to their annex in the alley (Vicolo del Gallo 14) for the Pizza Con La Mortazza (thin slices of mortadella between slices of warm pizza bianca).

ALLE CARRETTE

When I want to enjoy my pizza with a glass of wine at a proper sit-down resto, Alle Carrette near the Colosseum is where I head. They make their Roman-style pizza dough the day before and let it rise overnight before rolling it thin and cooking it at high heat in a wood oven. Their toppings are more on the traditional side so this is the place to order that Margherita or one of my favourites, the Prosciutto.  Their Calzones are also great and make sure you start with the Fritti of Zucchini Flowers.

AROMA

For a special occasion lunch or dinner (or when someone else is paying), I highly recommend the Michelin-starred Aroma at Palazzo Manfredi. Not only for the amazing food but for the spectacular view.  This amazing rooftop restaurant is situated directly in front of the Colosseum and the terrace offers amazing unobstructed views of the historical site. Enjoy their fantastic 7-course tasting menu with wine pairings in direct view of this magnificent historic ruin. I was so busy enjoying the food and the view that I forgot to take more pictures of the food.

Chef Di Lorio is a supporter of sustainable fish and has taken tuna off of the menu. Instead, it features appetizers with lesser-known varieties along with meat options and local produce.

FATAMORGANA

You can’t talk about food in Rome without mentioning Gelato. But the subject of gelato in Rome (or Italy for that matter) is a touchy one. There are a lot of places catering to unknowing tourists that sell inferior products made of fillers and food colourings. A good guide to follow is to look a the colour of the gelato, particularly the pistachio. A good-quality pistachio gelato should be more of a muted green, not a fluorescent, vibrant green.

Fatamorgana is one of my favourites and currently has about 9 locations around the city. They make authentic gelato right from scratch with fresh, natural ingredients. Founder Maria Agnese is always looking for new, unique combinations of flavours.

The flavours rotate seasonally but on the day of my most recent visit in December, the available flavours included Pear and Gorgonzola (yummy), White Chocolate and Pine Nuts, and Wasabi (dark chocolate and horseradish) which sadly I did not try. Instead, I played it boring and opted for my usual, 1 scoop of Nocciola (hazelnut) and 1 scoop of Salted Caramel.

So there you have it.  My guide to some of my favourite Rome restaurants. Do you have any favourites? I’d love to hear about them. And if you try out any of these restaurants please let me know.  I’d love to hear what you think.

If you’re looking for other tips about travelling to Italy, check out my post on The Best Piazzas In Rome For Aperitivo and 6 Things You Absolutely Must Do On The Amalfi Coast.

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