A GUIDE TO NICE, FRANCE

Fondly referred to as Nice La Belle (Nice the beautiful), Nice, is one of the most visited cities in France. Located in the French Riviera (or Cote d’Azur) on the southeast coast of France on the Mediterranean Sea, the city stretches from the water up into the hills.

With its mild winters with moderate rainfall, Nice features one of the warmest Mediterranean climates for its latitude. This is why back in the late 18th century, Nice was where the British aristocracy would come during the winter. It’s also how Nice’s seaside walkway, the Promenade des Anglais, got its name.

My first visit to Nice was at the end of February and the weather definitely did not disappoint. Flowers were in bloom everywhere and it was warm enough for walking around the city with just a light sweater and enjoying lunch outside at one of the beach restaurants. Some of the locals were sunbathing and there were even a few brave souls in the water. I have since been back to Nice a few times, in February, December, and September, and except for one morning of rain, the weather has been just as nice.

When there I like to head down to the flower market area in the morning where there is a great restaurant for breakfast or lunch. Pain & Cie sits directly opposite the entrance to the market and offers a nice view. There is plenty of outdoor seating and large communal tables inside and the place is always busy with locals and tourists alike. They feature a wide variety of excellent homemade pastries and bread but you can also get muesli or omelets. My favorites are the Pain Au Chocolat or the Crepes or French Toast served with berries and cream. And always, always a Cafe Au Lait and fresh-squeezed orange juice.

What To See

Cours Selaya Market

If you get there I highly recommend just taking some time to walk around the city. After breakfast start by heading across the street to the busy Cours Selaya market, otherwise known as the flower market. The market is always filled with locals doing their daily shopping as well as tourists snapping photos of all the colorful flowers and produce, not to mention all the delicious cheese.

Vieille Ville

From the market, you can easily access Nice’s old town, Vieille Ville, where you can wander around the narrow streets and browse the quaint little shops. Here you will find shops and boutiques selling everything from French soaps and salts to candy to clothing and beautiful linen tablecloths. There are also lots of restaurants, bars, and cafes to take a break in.

Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate

While in the old town make sure to stop by Place Rossetti to see the Cathedrale Sainte-Reparate (Nice Cathedral) a Roman Catholic cathedral and the seat of the Diocese of Nice. It’s quite an extraordinary Baroque-style cathedral (pictured below left and bottom).

Colline du Chateau

At the eastern edge of the old town, you’ll find steps leading up to the Colline du Chateau (Castle of Nice), a former citadel that was used for military purposes. It’s now a park and from here there are stunning views of the Bay of Angels as well as Nice’s port. While there, be sure to check out the beautiful waterfall. To find it follow the signs that say “Cascade”. If you’re not into walking up to the top of Castle Hill there are 2 elevators found around the corner by the base of the steps. Look for the word “CASTEL” on the wall that borders the beach and a sign that says “ASCENTEUR DU CHATEAU”.

Promenade des Anglais

From the Castle head back down to the beach and enjoy a leisurely walk along the promenade and the Baie des Anges. After working up an appetite, stop for lunch at one of the numerous beach clubs. My favorite is Ruhl Plage where they have an amazing Salad Nicoise and a lovely house rose you can order by the carafe. After lunch, you can rent a beach lounge chair and umbrella and take a swim if the weather permits.

Place Massena

Located in the middle of the city this historic square was named after French military commander Andre Massena. The bustling square is the largest in the city and a great place to sit and admire fountains like the Fontaine du Soleil as well as the impressive Neoclassical Pompeian red buildings.

Promenade du Paillon

From Place Massena, you can easily walk to the Jardin Albert 1er and the Promenade du Paillon. This popular 12-hectare urban park features the Miroir d’Eau (mirror of water) with its numerous water jets.

Cathedrale Saint-Nicolas

This Eastern Orthodox cathedral is the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedral in Western Europe. Other than the cathedrals in Russia, it’s considered to be one of the best Orthodox cathedrals in Europe. It’s a bit outside the downtown area but worth a visit for the distinct architecture. Just be aware that you are not allowed to take pictures inside.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS;

Are there beaches in Nice, France? Yes, Nice has some fabulous beaches including numerous beach clubs along the main Promenade des Anglais. Some of the more popular ones include;
Plage Beau Rivage- At the foot of Old Town. It has 5 star amenities and is one of the largest beaches in the French Riviera.
Ruhl Plage - Another popular one along the Promendade. It features a restaurant, beach chairs an hot showers. 
Castel Plague - Another private club, this time at the eastern most part of the Bais des Anges removed from the crowds.
Carras Beach - At the western most part of the Promenade des Anglais, Carras is easily accessible and features disability-friendly amenities. It is also pet freindly so feel free to bring your four legged friends.

How many days do you need in Nice? In my opinion 3 days would be the perfect amount of time to be able to see Nice's hightlights. Of course more would really allow you to relax and get to know the city the way the locals do. 

What is the best month to visit Nice, France? I have visited during many different months of the year and honestly have always enjoyed it. However April - June and September - October are the most popular months with consistently good weather. That being said I have visited in the middle of February and have still been able to sit outside for a meal at the beach clubs. 

Can you do a day trip to Monaco from Nice? Yes! Monaco is an easy day trip and being just a 25 minute train or drive, it's one of the most popular day trips that poeple who visit Nice add to their plans. 

Other Things To Do

Food Tour

If you have time I highly recommend doing a food tour while in Nice. We booked one through Viator and we had a very knowledgeable guide who led us through the best stalls at the market and shops in the old town all while giving us a brief history lesson on Nice, France. During the tour, we tried a variety of local French specialties including Tourte de Blettes, a delicious tart made with Swiss chard, raisins, and pine nuts as well as some local pastries and a chic pea pancake called Socca which is a popular street food. We also tried an onion, anchovy, and olive tart called Pissaladiere, a stuffed onion dish, and some different types of pates and goat cheese accompanied by a very good local rose wine.

Place Garibaldi

One of the oldest and largest squares in Nice. The tram line crosses through the middle so it’s an easy place to go for the beautiful scenery and many restaurants and cafes. Nearby are the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre, Cafe de Turin, and the National Theater.

Museum of Modern Art

Worth a visit if you’re into modern art. And there are great views from the rooftop.

Musee Matisse

A municipal museum that contains one of the largest collections of work by painter Henri Matisse.

Musee Marc Chagall

A French national museum devoted to the work of Marc Chagall, mainly his work inspired by religion.

Zone Pietonne

Another place worth strolling is the pedestrian zone in Nice’s downtown. It starts at Place Massena and runs parallel to the promenade just a bit north of it. As cars are not allowed this is a popular walkway filled with restaurants and shops.

How To Get Around

The main downtown area of the city including the old town is very walkable but for longer journeys, Nice’s bus and tram systems are excellent. At the time of writing, a combined ticket, good for both the bus and the tram, costs 1.50E and is good for 74 minutes, including changes. They also offer various other tickets according to the length of your stay, including 1-day and 7-day Passes. Or if you wish to travel by taxi you can reserve in advance, hail one, or walk to any of the numerous taxi ranks in the city.

Where To Eat

When in Nice, my preference is usually to eat casual meals like those mentioned earlier at the always-good Pain & Cie and Plage Ruhl Beach Club. Or sometimes I pick up a Salad Nicoise or a Pan Bagnat to go at one of the little food shops in the old town and find a spot with a view to sit and enjoy my meal. However here are a few restaurants that I’ve personally eaten at and I’m comfortable recommending.

Cote Lounge – Located in the pedestrian zone in the downtown area this trendy yet casual restaurant/bar has good food and an excellent patio. The cuisine is varied, featuring some French dishes as well as some from the neighboring country Italy. We had a very good meal here consisting of fresh salads, a Baked Brie appetizer, and my favorite, Steak Tartar. They are open for lunch and dinner.

Restaurant Jan – If you are looking for a restaurant for a special occasion or dinner this is it! Located in the up-and-coming Nice Port area this fine dining resto is run by South-African born Chef Jan Hendrik Van Der Westhuizen and labels itself as “a celebration of South-African hospitality and serves honest food inspired by local produce from the markets of the South of France”. Jan specializes in tasting menus of 3, 5, or 6 courses with optional wine pairings. I had a memorable Valentine’s Day dinner here a few years ago (it was dark so please excuse the grainy images). Jan is open for dinner Tues. – Sat. and lunch on Fri. and Sat. Reservations are recommended and can only be made online.

How To Get To Nice

By Plane

Nice Cote d’Azur Airport is the third busiest airport in France and has two terminals, International and Domestic. The airport can be accessed from most other cities in Europe. It’s located on the Promenade des Anglais, near l’Arénas, and has two terminals, International and Domestic. From the airport, you can take the Route 98 public bus into the city. Or if you’re looking for something more direct, taxis charge a fixed rate of 32E into the downtown area.

By Train

The main railway station is Nice-Ville and it’s served by the high-speed TGV trains as well as the local commuter TER services. You can catch a taxi to the downtown area directly outside the station.

Where To Stay

Whenever I’m on a coast I try to stay at a hotel (or Airbnb) with a view of the water. In Nice, I’ve stayed at a few but I can recommend these ones.

Hotel West End – Situated directly on the Promenade the West End is an old-world glamour hotel with beautiful views. Make sure to book a higher floor, water view room. Also, make sure to ask for one of the newly renovated rooms. Rates can be a bit high in the tourist season but go down considerably in the off-season. I once got a great deal on a sea view room. Check out this view from my balcony!

Hotel Rivoli – The lovely Rivoli is a small boutique hotel that just oozes French charm. It is in a Belle Epoque (1890) private house just a 2 min. walk to the beach. Just down the road from the Hotel Negresco, it is very well located. There are 24 rooms all decorated a la Francaise, but be forewarned, the rooms can be small, even by European standards so best for a shorter stay. They also feature a very good breakfast with some of the best bread I’ve ever tasted!

Overall, Nice, France is a lovely city with a great climate for a getaway when you need a little sun therapy or just looking for some French culture. From Europe, it’s very doable for a long weekend but it’s also a great destination for a longer stay. If you’re there for more than a few days there are some great cities close by (like Monaco) that make great day trips and I will be doing a separate post on that soon.

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If you’re looking for more travel tips check out my post on 6 Things You Absolutely Must Do On The Amalfi Coast and A Guide To The Best Restaurants In Rome.